C O N T E N T S

 Cast off from Lautoka [Tue May 11th 1999]

Today we set sail on our Melanesian Expedition with the Marine Expeditions staff welcoming everyone aboard the Akademik Shuleykin - home for the next two weeks. After an action packed few hours in the wake of our arrival aboard the ship, the evening settled into a mild swell, reminding us that we were underway on our adventure across the South Pacific.

Having familiarized ourselves with our cabins, everyone was soon mingling over cocktails in the bar, many of us renewing old acquaintances whilst also making some new ones. As the sun began to slip below the horizon, many of us took in the warm tropical air on the outer decks, witnessing the hive of activity that was going on around the pier. The sunset offered us a stunning tempter of what is to come as it burned it's way to the horizon through the heavy cloud cover, lighting the falling rain in the distance like shimmering gold.

We eventually cast off into the darkness saying our goodbyes to Fiji, after which we once again gathered in the bar as the evening's festivities began. Before dinner, Geoff led a briefing in which the Marine Expeditions staff was introduced, so we know where to direct questions and queries. Afterwards we indulged in our first taste of Austin and Rolf's delicious fare, a sign of good things to come. Our long journey and the effects of jetlag set in after dinner and many of us retired to the comforts of our bunks, whilst others enjoyed some after dinner socialising with our new companions.
 

01	The bow of the Akademik Shuleykin breaks through a wave

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The Pacific Ocean is the largest single geographic feature on the planet. With a total area of 166 million square kilometres, it occupies more than one-third of the globe. North to South, from the Bering Strait to Antarctica is a distance of 15,671 kilometres. East to West along the wide stretch from Mindanao in the Philippines, to the Panama Canal, the Pacific measures 17,220 kilometres.

“This grand show is eternal. It is always sunrise somewhere. The dew is never all dried at once. A shower is forever falling. Vapor is ever rising. Eternal sunrise, eternal sunset. Eternal dawn and glowing, on sea and continents and islands, each in its turn as the earth rolls. And for this I am forever grateful to be alive.”

John Muir

 A Day at Sea [Wed May 12th 1999]

Our first day at sea offered a relaxing as well as educational day for us all as we spent time gaining our sea legs on some unexpectedly heavy swells. We were treated to a superb opening for our educational program with all three lecturers delivering pertinent discussions on various aspects of the journey ahead.

After a night that saw strong winds whipping up the waters, we awoke to a hot tropical morning with a strong breeze pushing us on our way. Theresa began our lecture program with an informative outline of the biology of coral reefs, discussing the fauna that thrives in the warm tropical waters around the planet. She looked at the various types of coral formations surrounding the volcanic areas throughout the South Pacific, from fire and brain corals to the enormous fan corals growing in the deeper waters on the outer part of the reefs. She discussed the mechanisms they use to trap food and reproduce themselves. The fragile environment is of major concern across the planet with these animals being threatened not by only changes in the aquatic surroundings, such as water temperature changes and pollution but also by predators that inhabit and survive on the reef. Many of us will be looking for signs of ecosystem imbalances such as a large number of Crown of Thorns Starfish which occurs when too many triton shells, their predator, are collected. Since Crown of Thorns eat coral, a reef can be damaged when a marine ecosystem is thrown out of balance in this way. Jeff also introduced us to some of the wonderful bird life that we have a possibility of seeing as we make our way towards Papua New Guinea. He discussed the beautiful Terns, the predatory Frigate Birds, pigeons and lorikeets. We are all keen to see the magnificent Birds of Paradise that were the grand finale of the lecture, with their brilliant colouring and remarkable plumage.

After a delicious pasta buffet for lunch, Paul completed the picture of the South Pacific giving us a fascinating lecture on the geology of the Ring of Fire. For the uninitiated, we learned the difference between the various types of events that give our planet its changing face, from subduction zones to convergent plate boundaries to transform faults. We also had a good introduction to the various islands that are included in this ocean crossing, outlining the differences between the islands to the east of Fiji and those we will encounter to the north and west, based on the types of geological activity that has created them. Paul also looked at the theories of island formation that stem from Charles Darwin's early research which remains essentially unchallenged to this day.

Geoff also began the ship tours taking us on a journey around the Shuleykin. From the bridge to the engine room we gained a new appreciation of how the ship functions on a daily basis as well as for the crew who work so hard to keep her going.
 

Some of the islands of Vanuatu are coral formations; most of them are of volcanic origin, and several volcanoes are active. The highest peak, Tabwémasana (1811 m/5942 ft), is on Espiritu Santo. Most of the islands are forested, and some have fertile soils. The climate is wet and tropical, with an average annual temperature of 25° C (77° F). Annual rainfall decreases from 3810 mm (150 in) in the northern part of the group to 2286 mm (90 in) in the south. The total population (1992 estimate) of 154,000 is largely Melanesian, with minorities of Europeans, Chinese, and Vietnamese. English, French, and Bislama are the official languages; numerous Melanesian languages are spoken. The majority of the people are Christian.

“A journey is a person in itself, no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policies and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip, a trip takes us.”

John Steinbeck (1902 - 1968)

 Éfaté, Vanuatu [Thur May 13th 1999]

After a quiet morning at sea today we made our first sighting of land soon after lunch and our expedition began in earnest with a landing at Port Vila on the island of Éfaté, Vanuatu. The morning continued our educational program with lectures from Theresa and Paul. Theresa discussed the magnificent tropical fish that inhabit the waters we are traveling through. She looked at the use of colour across species, the various shapes and evolutionary adaptations that have developed over time to give these creatures their advantages in the water. We will be looking out for these as we visit the islands on our itinerary. Paul continued with this theme, discussing the geology of these reefs and outlining the geological establishment of different parts of a reef system. He enlightened us as to the different conditions that form each sector of a reef, as well as the structural development of the coral and limestone depending on their position within the reef structure. We heard about the Give-Up, Catch-Up and Keep-Up corals and their roles across the creation and development of the reef under ever-changing conditions.

After a delicious lunch, many of us took to the decks as the island of Éfaté loomed in the distance. The entrance to the harbour was spectacular, dotted with heavy limestone outcrops and lush verdant vegetation, tempting us as our pilot guided us in. Some careful manoeuvring by our Captain brought us alongside the pier and everyone was eager to begin our visit. We quickly boarded the bus and headed for our first destination, Ekasup Village, which offered us a fascinating insight into the lives of the traditional residents of Vanuatu. The performers gave us a 'terrifying' welcome as we entered the village, hinting at what Captain Cook may have encountered when he first visited Vanuatu. We learned the traditional methods of trapping animals, cooking food in deep fire-pits making use of the leaves of the banana plant as a timer, preserving food for times of famine and utilising the resources of the island in caring for their family, raising their children and maintaining their health. 

Eventually it came time to move on, but we were ushered to our transport by flaming torches and smiling faces and everyone departed with a greater insight as to the lives of the islanders' ancestors. The next stop was the National Museum of Vanuatu, which is actually in it's early stages of construction with funding from the Vanuatu Government. The museum was filled with fascinating exhibits, not the least of which was the stunning pigs tooth given to Queen Elizabeth II on a visit some years ago. The historical connection between the people of Vanuatu and those of other South Pacific islands was clear in the enormous stone carvings, reminiscent of those exhibited by so many cultures throughout this region.
 

The tradition of Land Diving held on Pentecost Island in Vanuatu originated when a woman trying to escape her angry husband lured him into a trap by climbing a Banyan tree. As the husband climbed after her, she tied previously prepared liana vines to her ankles and jumped, followed by the man - he fell to his death while she was saved by the vines. Today, the festival is still held as a modern day sacrifice in hope of a good yam crop for the coming year.

“This we know, the earth does not belong to man, man belongs to the earth. All things are connected like the blood which unites us all. Man did not weave the web of life, he is merely a strand in it. Whatever he does to the web, he does to himself.”

Chief Sealth

 Pentecost and Ambrym [Fri May 14th 1999]

Today we witnessed a part of the culture of Vanuatu that few people are lucky enough to encounter and which will remain with us forever more. Our visit to Pentecost Island was highlighted by the stunning display of land diving, a ceremony held in the hope of a good Yam harvest in the coming season as well as a ritual of initiation into manhood for the divers.

After an early breakfast, everyone climbed aboard the Zodiacs and we made our way around the headland, on the southern coast of the island, to Wanuru village. As we pulled into the shore we were greeted by warriors running across the beach, armed with clubs and spears to remind us of their strength and ferocity. After making our peace we were allowed to land and were escorted towards the village by our appeased hosts. We quickly gathered and began making our way up the uneven track leading to the land diving tower we had spied from the Zodiacs en route to the village. As the last of us entered the clearing the rhythmic voices of the villagers pounded into action as we spied the intricately constructed wooden tower for the first time, with it's dangling Liana vines tempting us with the spectacle to come.

The ceremony commenced with a jump by the Chief's son from the first platform and we went on to witness sixteen jumps culminating with a mammoth leap from the top of the 70-foot tall tower. Each time we heard the whip of the vine and a loud crack as the as the jumper's weight snapped the platform, we craned to see whether everything remained in tact as the voices continued their haunting beat, psyching the jumpers into action. Applause showed our appreciation as we all watched in awe at this amazing demonstration of fearlessness, surrounded by a backdrop of dense jungle reminding us of how remote a location this truly was.

After nearly three hours absorbed by all that was going on before us, the ceremony was over without injury and we made our back down to the beach. The looks on everyone's faces clearly showed the pleasure and privilege we all felt at witnessing such a thing. Our morning came to a close all too quickly as we made our way through the village back to the Zodiacs, saying our thanks and farewells as we went.

Whilst we feasted on Austin's famous Shuleykin Salad for lunch, the ship made it's way south to Ambrym Island. Again we were greeted on shore by warriors but the enormous Welcome sign and palm archway suggested that we needn't be concerned. Everyone made their way up the beach where we were leid by a line of traditionally dressed village women, offered coconut milk and welcomed with such warmth that we instantly felt at home. After the welcome presentation, which included the offering of gifts, from carvings to the biggest Yams known to man, we dispersed in different directions, having been given the run of the town for the afternoon. Some of us followed our guides through the village while others headed along the hill track to visit the even more remote village of Fanla. For those of us who made it to Fanla, we were welcomed with a presentation of dancing surrounded by an impressive array of Tam Tams, one of which was used as a drum. The faces of the villagers described their surprise at seeing European faces, highlighting the rarity of such visits.

We came away from the day with a variety of experiences discussing black magic, traditional values and fascinating cultures of these remote and beautiful islands, being reminded how small this planet really is, but also appreciating the efforts being made to preserve these cultures from within. It was a day that everyone will remember forever and none of us really wanted it to end, but as the sun disappeared over the horizon we returned to the ship to set sail for Moto Lava, our next destination, waving our heartfelt gratitude to the throng of people still lining the sand in the twilight.
 

The 82 islands of Vanuatu stretch north-south 1300 km from the Torres Islands near Santa Cruz in the Solomons to miniscule Matthew and Hunter Islands east of New Caledonia. Together they total 12,189 square km, of which the 12 largest islands account for 93%. Espiritu Santo and Malekula alone comprise nearly half of Vanuatu's land area.

“You never enjoy the world aright, till the sea itself floweth in your veins, till you are clothed with the heavens and crowned with the stars.”

Thomas Traherne

 Ra, Vanuatu [Sat May 15th 1999]

Another wonderful day was spent on the island of Ra, with more of the hospitality and warmth of the Vanuatu people making our stay so memorable. The day began with a wet start after breakfast, as we made our approach to the island. Sunrise had offered the spectacle of Mota, a classic sombrero-shaped, young volcanic cone passing by our decks in the morning sun and as we neared our destination, the tumbled boulders sitting on the shore at Ra suggested the amount of geological and aquatic activity that has taken place in this area in recent millennia. The clouds broke just as we reached the shore and all and sundry fell victim to an impromptu and powerful tropical downpour. The sun soon returned however, and the warm tropical air quickly began to dry us out.

The warrior welcome greeted us once again with a somewhat more aggressive tone than previously, but the music followed in earnest as the entire village appeared to welcome us. A line of villagers moved among as us we made our acquaintances with these proud people, beaming at the opportunity to share their paradise with us. The Akademik Shuleykin is the first passenger ship to visit this remote outcrop of Vanuatu, but after such a wonderful experience, it is unlikely to be the last.

Having been leid with garlands of sweet smelling flowers, everyone was ushered to the Information Centre, a small palm leaf hut which had been set up specifically for our visit. Unfortunately, space was at a premium but we were happy to stand outside as our host gave us the plan for the day, after which we dispersed ourselves around the island under the friendly leadership of the appointed guides. Some of us wandered the lengths of the village while others took in the floral aspects of the island on a guided nature walk, learning more about the botany and taking in the colours and scents surrounding us. Eventually, we all gathered along the beach to witness the unique Ra Island Snake Dance. The location of the performance was some way from the village, due to the sacred nature of this ritual dance, not to mention the prohibition of the village women from viewing the rite. As we stood waiting, the drum beat began and we saw a group of men moving along the beach towards us daubed in body paint reminiscent of the black and white banded markings of the Pacific Sea Snake. Having entertained us with their rhythmic movements they departed in the direction from which they had come, leaving us to make our way back to the village for a sumptuous lunch. 

We were treated to a magnificent spread of traditional island food, the highlight of which was the delicious lobster, a Ra island speciality. Our hosts honoured our visit to the island with the presentation of a wooden sword for the Captain and a sacred carved club for Geoff. Afterwards, we went to the village football pitch for a wonderful performance of the traditional dance of Ra. The men's dance featured a collection of magnificent head dresses wavering with the movement as the dancers' ankle rattles resonated the beat throughout the crowd. Later the women joined the performance and finally we were all invited to take part, waving palm fronds as we made our way around the drummers at centre stage.

The afternoon concluded for some with a snorkelling trip in the shallows between Ra and Mota Lava islands, while others made their way back to the ship after saying their goodbyes and thank-yous. We were all touched by an island that has had so little influence from the outside world, that has never seen television , and which lives its life in a most traditional manner. We all came away feeling the genuineness of our hosts, remembering the smiles, and the laughter of the children. We also reflected on the beauty of this unknown island paradise, with an immense sense of gratitude at having been able to share a small piece of it.
 

The Solomon Islands are mountainous; the highest peak, Mount Popomanaseu on Guadalcanal, rises to an elevation of 2331 m (7648 ft). The mountains are of volcanic origin. The climate of the Solomon Islands is hot and humid. The population (1995 estimate) is about 378,000. The capital and principal port is Honiara (population, 1990 estimate, 35,288), on Guadalcanal. Melanesians make up about 94 percent of the population, with a small minority of Polynesians. The Solomon Islands have a high birth rate which has resulted in low literacy rates and a high level of unemployment. English is the official language, although Pidgin is more widely spoken; some 80 local languages are also used.

“If I were a king, the worst punishment I could inflict on my enemies would be to banish them to the Solomons.”

Jack London