C O N T E N T S

 Nendo, Santa Cruz Islands [Sun May 16th 1999]

Did we chance upon some vast forgotten Hollywood film set? A classic adventure movie landscape, first stumbling across an ancient volcano still belching clouds of smoke into the air. A hiccup of ash drifting lazily in front of a sky, rippling in a hazy heat. Curious ocean swells surrounded us on a gentle crawl into the bay followed by a welcome from over thirty dugout canoes paddled enthusiastically by young and old. An honorary greeting for the humble explorers privileged to spend a day in the life of these people. The more simplistic and sacred the life, the more intriguing a place becomes for us, "the visitor".

Our morning began after breakfast with a tantalising display from the volcano on Tinakula Island, as a cloud of darkness was blown skyward before our bow. As the ash moved across the sky, the contrast of grey against the white pillows of cloud gave us a clear indication of how active this volcano continues to be. Many of us gathered on deck to see whether the mountain would offer more, pondering as to the strange movements of the ocean current before us until we rounded the north west corner of Santa Cruz Island and made our way in the Graciosa Bay. As the anchor was dropped near the village of Lata, the surrounding waters filled with a flotilla of dugout canoes as we were greeted by smiling faces and enthusiastic 'hellos'. Our clearance into the islands was quick and painless, despite having to surrender our plums and we quickly made it to shore, eager to start our adventure.

Having been met at the pier by more of the smiles and greetings we had seen in the canoes, we were ushered through the village to the official welcome. The fascinated expressions upon the islanders faces showed their surprise at the sight of us and this was summed up only too well by Peter who after conveying his sincerest welcomes asked whether "maybe Geoff can explain why you came here today?" In asking such a question, the answer was plainly obvious to us, as the sensation of how privileged we are struck once more, especially after learning that we are the first cruise ship ever to visit this isolated island. We were then divided into four groups, all of which went in different directions to experience as broad a selection of offerings as the island could include in one afternoon. 

There was a visit to a remote village tucked deep within the interior of the island, where dancers performed against a backdrop of wild verdant jungle. History was not forgotten, as some of us visited the site where Don Alvaro de Mendaña first landed in 1595. This island has been known by many names, but it is Mendaña's Santa Cruz that has survived. Another village visit saw a welcoming line so long that our arms were aching by the time we had finally made our acquaintances with everyone. The strongest sentiment however was always the pleasure our hosts took in sharing their island home with us.

There was some heavy bargaining taking place throughout the afternoon, as we browsed and bought a vast array of Solomon Islands artefacts, taking on different forms to those we have seen on other islands and clearly highlighting the strength of individual cultures prevalent in each of these nations. Finally we all regrouped at a village deeper within the bay where we were treated to another display of dancing, boasting more of the spectacular costumes that have dazzled us before. As with everywhere else we had been, a throng of interested faces surrounded us, keen to catch an eye, engrossed by our every move.

The afternoon drew to a close all too soon and as we made our way to the Zodiacs, our entourage kept close by until we finally left the beach to waves and farewells from all. As the anchor was raised and we turned our bow to the open sea, our flotilla drifted away behind our wake casting a picturesque silhouette in the late afternoon shimmer dancing across the water.
 

Solomon Island - Order FREE Travel Brochure!

The chief products of the Solomon Islands are copra, timber, rice, cacao, processed fish, sweet potatoes, plantains, pineapples, and trochus shells (used in making buttons and ornamental objects). Large deposits of bauxite and phosphate rock are found here, and alluvial gold is produced on Guadalcanal. In the early 1990s logging accounted for more than half of the Solomon Islands' export earnings. However, forests are being logged at unsustainable levels. In 1994 the government proposed that a logging ban take effect beginning in 1997.

““There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”

Kenneth Grahame

 Santa Ana [Mon May 17th 1999]

Another day, another remote tropical island paradise. Different again from our previous experiences in its culture and expression, the beautiful makatea island of Santa Ana presented us with yet another collection of unique memories which will remain with us always.

A picturesque entrance through the channel separating Santa Ana and Santa Catalina Islands preceded our arrival, and we dropped anchor on the west coast of Santa Ana just outside shallow Mary Bay, eagerly awaited by our hosts. The Zodiacs were loaded and we headed for the village of Ghupuna, to the throng of faces with which we have grown familiar with over the past few days, as well as a few, more jovial warriors who cautioned us before we came ashore. After we had made our greetings, we moved like a mobile attraction surrounded by eager onlookers, to an open square, lined with merchants selling their wares. Magnificently carved fishing floats, ceremonial bowls and intricate animal designs were featured in a market of wonderful variety. Sergey's Zodiac was looking rather loaded as it carried our booty back to the ship. As the sun beat down mercilessly, we were beckoned to the shaded arena deeper within the village as the melodious tones of a band of pipers echoed across the clearing. The pipes were of every length imaginable, some so large that they required frames for support and were beaten with flip-flops to create their wonderful sound. Eventually we were all seated and our welcome began with a speech from Jacob, the chief of the village. As he spoke, the crowd of islanders who guarded the periphery of the arena grew until we were surrounded by an audience more interested in watching our actions than those being performed in front of them. Together we watched a selection of dances mostly centred on the women of the island, with musical accompaniment that ranged from giant conch shells to a single voice. The finale provided a spectacular conclusion as two 'tribes', daubed with different coloured body paint to represent different skin colour of the protagonists, swirled around the women in a battle for power.

After a tasty lunch, hiding in the dappled shade that covered this village meeting place, we headed off to further explore the island. Some of us took a trek across the interior to visit the Spirit Houses in the village of Nataghera, where we gained a greater appreciation of the spiritual beliefs held by such isolated populations - well, the men did anyway! Women are not permitted to enter these buildings, which contain the bones of the village ancestors and which have played an important role in the life of the village for over 500 years. The bones of chiefs were laid in carved caskets taking the shape of fish or canoes while skulls lay preserved in bamboo baskets, indicating the immense value placed upon the human heritage of this culture.

While the hikers were having a workout, others took the opportunity to cool off in the bay, wandering around in the shallows near shore or heading further out to the coral reef edge, inhabited by a mass of colour and life. The variety of fish life was outstanding as the reef dropped away into the deeper waters of the channel, with clown fish hiding among the spines of the anemone, parrot fish gnawing away at the limestone, not to mention a visit from three white-tipped reef sharks pursuing a school of Snapper.

Some of us were adopted by our hosts and had personal tours of the Ghupuna, enjoying unique encounters at a more intimate level. As the afternoon drew to a close we trickled back to the ship having shared a wonderful day with more incredibly hospitable people. Just as the last Zodiacs were being loaded onto the deck, our afternoon was capped off with a 'fly-by' from Geoff, making the most of the calm seas weaving his way towards the ship aboard his water-ski. As the sun disappeared behind Santa Ana, we set sail for Malaita Island.
 

Solomon Island - Order FREE Travel Brochure!

The national flag of the Solomon Islands was first flown on the 7th July 1978 to mark the nation's independence from Britain. The flag is blue and green, divided diagonally by a thin yellow stripe. This stands for the narrow strand of sand separating the surrounding blue seas from the country's green forests. There are five white stars clustered at the top left corner, representing the Solomons' five main island group.

“The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.”

St. Augustine (354-430)

 Langa Langa Lagoon, Malaita Island [Tue May 18th 1999]

Today we had yet another distinct and unique experience when, in sweltering temperatures, we visited a man-made island on the edge of Langa Langa Lagoon adjacent to Malaita Island. Our day began after breakfast as we loaded the Zodiacs and took in the magnificent view of the lagoon, lined with coral walls and houses overhanging the crystal clear emerald waters. Our landing site, the cultural village on Busu Island, greeted us with warriors and welcomes as we were ushered into the centre of the village to smiles and handshakes. The searing sun sent the humidity soaring as we stood in any remnant of shade that we could find. Thomas, the High Priest of the village welcomed us and outlined our program for the day and the activity commenced with a demonstration of traditional hunting methods, divination practices used to diagnose illness and the spiritual treatments used to address such afflictions.

We then separated into groups of ladies and gentlemen for our visits to those sites that are sacred to each of the sexes within this community. After a wonderful display of singing by a small group of children shuffling coconut shells amongst the coral, the ladies were led to the birthing house where new mothers were forced to remain for ten days after giving birth to their children. Thankfully these days a hospital is the preferred location but the site remains of great significance to the islanders. The gentlemen by contrast were taken through the scrub to the final resting-place of many of the island's ancestors. Human bones were scattered amongst the skulls of former village chiefs, having been exhumed from the graves in which their remains were originally interred for decomposition after death.

We regrouped shortly after in a long meeting house adjacent to the clearing in the centre of the village, the length of which was lined by women working on the traditional processes of minting shell money. As we moved along the line we saw the method used to cut the fine chips of shell into bead size pieces, the grinding process that smoothed the adjacent surfaces of the beads and the colouring of each piece using the surface of a heated rock to bring out the true brilliance of the shell. The manual drill used to pierce the centre of each bead was a fascinating construction resembling a spinning top and the final smoothing of the strung money highlighted just how labour intensive the manufacture of the beautiful results used to be. We saw this money put to use with the appearance of a Busu bride, oiled and adorned with vast quantities of shell beading, hanging almost the length of her body as well as wrapped around the gourd-like ornament she carried. Eventually we were let loose on the stall offering a huge display of shell money for sale, as well as more examples of the magnificent carving we have seen throughout these islands. By the time we returned to the ship for lunch, the stall was nearly bare as we departed with an abundance of Busu's wares.

Returning to the village after nourishment, we were treated to an interesting display of dance and more of the wonderful tones of the panpipes. The recital including a mourning dance from the women performed only when a member of the community passes away. The highlight for many of us however, was the adorable performance of Bernard, the smallest member of the men's ensemble whose front line presence was outstanding for one so small. Having checked the stall one more time, we finally boarded the Zodiacs and headed out into the lagoon for a cruise. The dark clouds made good their threat as we wandered along the shoreline, soaking us to the skin and providing welcome relief from the intense heat of the morning. We passed a stunning array of houses hanging over the water, boat sheds used to make traditional freight vessels for inter-island transport as well as a vast array of mangroves which provide the stability for many of these precariously created islands.

As the sun started its descent we wove our way back to the gangway, amidst the flotilla of dugout canoes that had surrounded the ship for most of the day. Waving our farewells, we made our way out of the lagoon, leaving behind us the primitive backdrop of Malaita Island as billows of smoke rose intermittently from the verdant hillsides.
 

The name Honiara derives from the indigenous name for Point Cruz, naho-ni-ara meaning "facing the east and southeast trade winds.

“Work to live, live to travel, travel to broaden the mind, broaden the mind and incapacitate it with tolerance.”

Matthew Mumford

 Honiara, Guadalcanal [Wed May 19th 1999]

Today we changed our perspective on the journey so far with an island visit heavily steeped in the history of World War II and the role that Guadalcanal played in the Allied victory in the Pacific Ocean. The battle fought across the South Pacific placed this small archipelago into a position of prominence as US forces finally stopped the onslaught of the Japanese troops forging south.

The channel separating the capital Honiara from Nggela Sule and Nggela Pile islands is known as Iron Bottom Sound. Named due to the enormous number of ships sunk in battle, it gives an indication as to the ferocity of the fighting that took place here. Our morning was spent visiting the various memorials and other sites around the island, at the informative hands of our guides.

After an early breakfast, we made our way down the gangway to a welcome dry landing, boarding the buses that were to be our transport for the morning. We headed off through the centre of Honiara, a bustling metropolis in comparison to the settlements that we have visited recently and made our way to the U.S. War Memorial. The memorial, an impressive collection of marble slabs outlining the battles staged around Guadalcanal, overlooks the Mataniko River and the village of Vara below, offering a tranquil place of reflection. We then continued on to the Japanese War Memorial at Mount Austen, again offering wonderful views across the island and reminding us of the losses sustained as much by the opposition as by the Allies. The hilltop provided a shelter for Japanese observers monitoring the shelling of Henderson Airfield below, the critical stronghold that played such a vital role in the confrontation. Bloody Ridge offered the best vantage point for the Allied defence of the airfield which the Japanese forces tried repeatedly to overrun and it was this successful defence that gave the American troops the upper hand. The airfield itself gave us a glimpse at some of the weaponry used, as well as the scaffold structure used as the control tower right up until the 1950's. Betikama offered more of the battle paraphernalia with a collection of salvaged aircraft debris, anti-tank weaponry and a gun carrier in the small museum set up there, but everyone seemed a little more interested in the crafts displayed in the shop nearby. The contributions from our purchases were going towards the King George VI School nearby, so having virtually cleared the shelves, everyone left feeling as though their contributions were worthwhile.

En route back to the ship for lunch we drove through Chinatown, a colourful collection of Oriental textile stores adding brightness to the dusty surroundings near the centre of Honiara. After lunch many of us disappeared into the main centre of Honiara to explore on our own. The National Museum offered us further insight into the traditions and lifestyles of the islanders throughout the Solomons, exhibiting an impressive array of archaeological findings as well as displays on dance, body ornamentation and weaponry amongst other things.

The Cultural Centre outlined the unique cultures that inhabit this diverse nation, with a collection of traditional housing from different provinces around the Solomons highlighting the individuality that exists throughout the many islands. Finally the afternoon came to an end and as we pulled away from the twinkling lights of the city, a thousand miles away at the edge of the earth, the ocean caught fire and the clouds set ablaze as a striking sunset drew the day to a dramatic close.
 

In headhunting days, there was always a danger that the man would be killed; although women could be enslaved, their lives were usually spared. For this reason, inheritance of land is matrilineal in New Georgia, with women being regarded as the land's custodians. The chief allocates tribal land to a woman's descendants, subject to her deathbed wishes. Consequently, new-born girls are as welcome as boys.

“The fair breeze blew, white foam flew, the furrow followed free, we were the first that ever burst into that silent sea.”

Samuel Taylor Coleridge
(from 'The Rime of the Ancient Mariner')

 Uepi Island, Marovo Lagoon [Thur May 20th 1999]

All around us, fish swimming between shards of dusty light that splinters the deep blue depths as the ocean floor falls away from beneath us. The morning began with the Marovo lagoon hiding behind the islands that form the lagoon boundary, with a calm sea inviting us to begin our adventure.

The heat on the decks was almost unbearable as we stood at the gangway ready to load the Zodiacs, but everyone was keen to get ashore and savour the delights of the Uepi Island Resort nestled on the shores of Uepi Island, adjacent to Karikana Island. Our arrival at the pier saw many of us simply drop our bags and head straight into the water to the feast of life waiting below. Others made their way into the resort to savour the delights of this luxurious island outpost, taking early advantage of the wonderful shade offered by the lounge bar, the latest building to be added to the resort and still partially under construction. For those of us in the water, the interest was unending in a coral garden that fell off the seabed some five metres from shore. Spectacular Tridacna Giant Clams lay waiting for us beside the pier in beautiful blues, golds and greens, looking like velvet in their metre wide shells. Pastel pink soft coral clung to the side of the limestone wall interspersed with giant Fan Corals spanning the current in search of food. Brain coral bulged forth as Parrot Fish acted territorially while nibbling at the limestone. We saw the Lion Fish fluttering around, its pectoral fins feathering and its dangerous dorsal spines ready to inflict damage upon any predators. Sergeant fish meandered by in large numbers and different varieties, while Pink Anemonefish hid within the spines of the sea urchins and jellyfish propelled themselves gracefully. As the current strengthened within the small channel and the tide made its way to sea, an abundance of sea life appeared on the edge of the reef, including Black Tipped Reef sharks indulging in the thronging food supply. The huge variety of shapes and colours brought this underwater world to life like no other place we have visited, to the point that a number of us who have never snorkelled before took the advice of the excited voices around us and made our way into the water. A wonderful reward was waiting for all that tried.

For those of us who did not venture into the water, relaxation and comfort were on the agenda, making our way around the island to take in the setting of this wonderful resort. Any shady spot was welcome to take time out from the busy schedule we have packed in over the past few days and it was obvious that we were all recharging our batteries in our own ways. Our hosts, Jim and Sunny treated us to a delicious buffet lunch, giving Austin and Rolf a well earned respite from duty as we all took advantage of the shade in the lounge. As the slow trickle back to the ship began the Melanesian shopping spree continued as we were lured into the stall at the end of the pier. More magnificent carvings and artefacts made their way into our bags as we bartered hard for the best price, some of us literally giving the shirts off our backs for what we wanted.

Eventually the afternoon drew to a close and we thanked our charming hosts for their hospitality as well as for offering us the chance to visit this magical piece of our planet. As the sun set, and we began our departure from Solomon Island waters, Happy Hour moved its location to the observation deck where the briefing was held under a starry sky with the islands of the lagoon passing into the distance. Many people stayed out on the decks after dinner watching an awesome display of sheet and forked lightening that seemed to be going on all around us then, as if we hadn't had enough excitement for the day, the ship was suddenly surrounded by vast numbers of pulsing jelly-fish.
 

The Pacific is the oldest of the existing ocean basins, its oldest rocks having been dated at about 200 million years. The major features of the basin and rim have been shaped by phenomena associated with plate tectonics. The coastal shelf, which extends to depths of about 180 m (600 ft), is narrow along North and South America but is relatively wide along Asia and Australia. The East Pacific Rise, a midocean ridge system, extends about 8700 km (about 5400 mi) from the Gulf of California to a point about 3600 km (about 2235 mi) west of the southern tip of South America, and rises an average of about 2130 m (about 7000 ft) above the ocean floor. Along the East Pacific Rise molten rock upwells from the earth's mantle, adding crust to the plates on both sides of the rise. These plates, which are huge segments of the earth's surface, are thus forced apart, causing them to collide with the continental plates adjacent to their outer edges. Under this tremendous pressure, the continental plates fold into mountains, and the oceanic plates downbuckle, forming deep trenches, called subduction zones, from which crust is carried back into the mantle The stresses at the areas of folding and subduction are responsible for the earthquakes and volcanoes that give the rim of the Pacific basin the name "ring of fire.

“My experience of ships is that on them one makes an interesting discovery about the world. One finds one can do without it completely.”

Malcolm Bradbury