C O N T E N T S

 Heading for Papua New Guinea [Fri May 21st 1999]

Our final day at sea provided us with a well-earned rest after our hectic schedule since leaving Fiji as we made our way across the waters towards Papua New Guinea. We awoke to grey skies and drizzling rain offering some relief from the searing heat of the past few days, with a full educational program to keep us busy throughout the day. Jeff began the morning with his lecture on the peopling of the islands of the South Pacific, tracing the flow of the human race since it's beginnings in Africa right through to it's progress to the farthest reaches of this vast ocean. He discussed the various racial differentiations that are distinguishable between Polynesia, Melanesia and Micronesia and the origins, which may have contributed to the cultures we have encountered throughout this area. The various theories of migration were also touched upon, outlining the tremendous skill utilised in boat building, navigation and survival that saw these many races make their way across the Pacific, finally stemming the passage at Easter Island in the current millennium.

Paul continued the program with a discussion of the telltale signs that point to past meteorological catastrophes over the surface of the earth. He outlined a course of geological investigation undertaken by a group of geologists, him included, spawned from the discovery of a number of factors. These included the consistent appearance of chevron shaped ridges scarring the landscape across the Bahamas; marine deposits throughout the Bahamas, Bermuda and Hawaii, that are created only beneath sea level but which have appeared at altitudes much higher than our present sea level; the presence of massive ancient boulders resting precariously upon rock bases much younger than the boulders themselves. Through a careful analysis he explained that this evidence suggested a ferocious change in weather, bringing to an end a particularly warm inter-glacial period at a speed that was unusually rapid in the cyclic swing between glacial and inter-glacial phases.

A delicious Mexican buffet awaited we gringos for lunch, as many of us utilised our free time to begin packaging up the abundant purchases we have made throughout the journey. Theresa concluded the lecture program in the afternoon with her outline of the flora of the South Pacific. After invoking the images that many of us associate with the tropics, she gave us a synopsis of the plants and flowers we have seen throughout this region. We were reminded of the wonderful scents of the Frangipani, the colours of the Morning Glory, the unusual shape of the Spider Lily, as well as some of the fruit and vegetables that provide sustenance for the residents of many of the islands we have visited. We should all now be able to spot a Breadfruit tree at twenty paces, and find Arrowroot if ever we need to thicken our stews. We were also treated to a delicious snack late in the afternoon, as the Shuleykin Sushi Bar was opened for business. Everyone was keen to taste the selection of seaweed rolls and tuna sashimi, with some of us savouring the wonders of this Japanese speciality for the first time.
 

New Britain Island in Papua New Guinea is largest in the Bismarck Archipelago, in the Solomon Sea. The main city and port is Rabaul (population, 1990, 17,022). New Britain's chief products are copra, cacao, and timber. The island has high mountains and active volcanoes. William Dampier, an English navigator, named New Britain in 1700. The island was called Neu-Pommern while under German control from 1884 to the beginning of World War I in 1914. It was administered by Australia from 1920 to 1975, except for a period (1942-1945) of Japanese occupation. In 1994 about 90,000 residents of the island were evacuated when a volcano close to Rabaul erupted. The island suffered damage from earthquake aftershocks, tsunamis, and heavy ash fall. The island covers an area about 36,520 sq km (about 14,100 sq mi) with a population (1990) of 311,955.

“In the Middle Ages people were tourists because of their religion, whereas now they are tourists because tourism is their religion.”

Robert Runcie

 New Ireland, PNG [Sat May 22nd 1999]

We could not have asked for a more theatrical entrance to our final country, accompanied by a pod of dolphins, darting and jumping inches from the bow like spirited mischievous escorts for our passage to harbour. All around us, evidence of volcanic activity; the lethargically smouldering slopes of Tuvurvur, raised ancient cores with sheer sides - standing idly as if frozen in their breaching moment - areas of jungle laid bare by encroaching flows recently halted in their advance. And, in passing moments, huge dark grey spouts of towering ash erupting forth and hanging menacingly in the sky, perhaps an omen for things to come or perchance a final gasp before sleeping inactivity. The curtain was raised and the final act began as we explored our first area of Papua New Guinea: the dusty barren streets of Rabaul and beyond.

In our two vans we were grateful for the air-conditioning that protected us from both the heat of the day and the falling powder of ash hanging in the air. As we drove to the old airstrip, and our closer look at the smoking Tuvurvur, we passed through what remained of Rabaul, a place laid to waste by the 1994 eruption. The devastation seemed nearly complete, with a town flattened and covered with several feet of ash. Yet some establishments remained, such as the Travelodge Hotel, perhaps with discounted rates as compensation for being doused by a cloud of ash every couple of hours, day in and day out. From town we drove past the volcano Vulcan, with its naked pyramid form and troughs of eroded ash radiating down its sides. At the Barge Tunnels the lush island vegetation was intact, not having been impacted by the eruptions of 1994. The tall African Tulip trees with their orange flowers were beautiful.

We went from the heat and sun into the coolness of these Japanese made garages where they kept their landing-craft like barges. During WWII the barges rode on rails from the tunnels down to the sea's edge some few hundred yards down the hill. There they were floated out to Japanese ships at night to offload supplies for the island. We also visited, nearby, other Japanese tunnels, with their honeycombs of interconnected passageways. We learned that there were some 350 miles of such tunnels on the island, used for housing, hospitals, storage, everything underground. This was in fact where, for a long period of time, the Japanese lived as the island was heavily bombed by the Allies.

Our morning's tour ended at the Submarine Base Resort where we served a delicious lunch of local fish, chicken, and beef, with several salads. What a wonderful spot to rest and relax and enjoy the oceanside outdoor bar and patios. Just off shore was the very narrow reef, which ended in a sheer drop off of some 300 feet. It was here that the Japanese brought their submarines, right up to the edge of the reef to unload supplies to the island.

After lunch and a snorkel we were off again. We climbed up with our vans for a dramatic view of the bay, and of the Shuleykin being bathed by a cloud of volcanic ash. Finally, we stopped at the museum with its very interesting war relics, including a Japanese Zero, and the town of Kokopo, where we visited the large open-air market.
 

The wild animal life of Papua New Guinea is abundant and varied. Commonly found mammals include the tree kangaroo, wallaby, wild pig, and dingo, as well as varieties of squirrel, rat, bat, and mouse. Species of tropical birds abound, including the bird of paradise. Reptile species are numerous. The coastal waters support many species of fish, shellfish and turtles.

“Dreams come true; without that possibility, nature would not incite us to have them.”

John Updike

 Tsoi Island, PNG [Sun May 23rd 1999]

Harmonious voices, daubs of rust body paint and an archway of branches greeted us as we wandered into another remote community amidst the northern islands of Papua New Guinea. Our visit to Tsoi Vuka was yet another magical experience as we once again entered the more untouched regions, this time in the New Ireland province.

Our morning began with the magnificent passage through the Stephen Channel giving us an enticing view of the islands to our sides. Palm trees swayed in the warm breeze and we spied thatched huts hidden from shore as the grey skies swirled above us, threatening rain but protecting us from the heat of the tropical sun. After an early breakfast, we gathered at the gangway eager to make our way to shore. Geoff made an abortive attempt at finding our landing site, but after further investigation and some help from the islanders, we eventually headed through the cut in the reef, to visit the village of Mansava.

We navigated towards this sandy motu, curling around through a narrow channel filled with thorny starfish, to be greeted by a throng of adorned New Irelanders. As each of us made our way through the welcome arch, the melodious voices of the islanders rang out with a traditional greeting and we were marked with a smear of ochre to signify our acceptance as visitors to the village. The voices continued gently as we moved into the village and once we had all congregated in the meeting-house, Boston, the village chief made our welcome official. Unlike any other village we have visited, the people of Mansava were as interested to hear about us as we were about them, and Boston invited us all to introduce ourselves and say a little about where we had come from on our long journey to visit their island. By the end of the introductions the crowd surrounding the meeting-house had swelled as everyone in the near vicinity came to hear our stories.

Finally we were invited to explore the village as the dancers from the New Ireland Cultural Dance Group made their preparations for performance. As we wandered around the village, some of us were privileged to see the Brahminy Eagle at arm's distance as a villager allowed many of us the opportunity to provide a perch for his pet. A few of us visited the houses dotted around the village, many of which were raised on stilts to protect them from the potential damage caused by high waters on this low lying island. As we began to make our way to the village square, the grey clouds made good their threat and the cooling rains began to fall in heavy drops. Everyone took cover and indulged in a quick snack to fill the time taking the opportunity to get to know our hosts better, until finally the skies cleared, the handmade bamboo lounge chairs were brought forth, and the dancers began. Unlike anything we have seen previously, the performance offered a fascinating juxtaposition of traditional and contemporary music as the drums and voices mingled with the more modern sounds of both acoustic and electric guitars. Traditional legends were acted out as the performers put immense expression into the stories they depicted with their movements, deftly demonstrating the precision and skill which has taken members of the troupe beyond Papua New Guinea to perform further afield.

As the trickle back to the ship commenced soon after the performance, many of us took to the water to savour the snorkelling in a strong drift current that moved through the narrow channel between the islands. As the afternoon finally came to an end we said our thanks and bid a fond farewell to the kind and gentle people we had taken great pleasure in meeting.

As we set sail for Lou Island we were treated to a delicious pasta buffet, followed later in the afternoon by a fascinating lecture from Theresa on the mythical persona surrounding Sharks. The day was capped off with a wonderful 'Show & Tell' session with some fine examples of the fantastic artefacts that we have seen in the past few weeks.
 

The first European to see the island of New Guinea was Antonio d'Abreu, a Portuguese navigator, in 1511, and the first to land was the Spanish explorer Jorge de Menezes in 1526. The Spanish claimed the island in 1546 and named it Novo Guinea because they thought the natives were similar to the West African tribes. New Guinea became a calling place for many later explorers. Their reports as well as scientific interest in the region led to exploration by several private and governmental expeditions.

“If we are to achieve a richer culture, rich in contrasting values, we must recognize the whole gamut of human potentialities, and so weave a less arbitrary social fabric, one in which each diverse human gift will find a fitting place.”

Margaret Mead
(Sex and Temperament in Three Primitive Societies)

 Lou Island [Mon May 24th 1999]

Today we were once more asked the question 'Why have you come here?' by our charming hosts as we visited the remote community of Lou, in the Admiralty Islands. And once more, the fact that we had been asked such a question reminded us just why we have travelled so far to visit these magical places.

Our proximity to the equator was highlighted by the continuing grey tropical skies that greeted us as we emerged, but the imminent downpour kept to a refreshing minimum, ensuring another wonderful day in paradise. Everyone was eager to board the Zodiacs soon after breakfast, the lure of the heavily wooded jungle on shore tempting us from the decks. Our approach was fascinating, with a narrow strip of black beach extending in front of heavily eroded volcanic rock faces, surrounded by the beautiful backdrop of jungle vines, palms and a smattering of tropical colour. The contrast of colours was stunning.

When we finally set foot upon the black sand, we were greeted by yet another throng of people, eager to invite us into their community and savour a small part of what the island had to offer. We made our way from the shore to the school, perched high on this volcanic land mass, with a view across the ocean. Many of us reminisced as to how different our own schools had been, wondering how we could have concentrated on our work had we spent our school years in such a distracting setting. All the pupils had gathered in one of the windowless classrooms in anticipation of our arrival and we encircled them enthusiastically to listen to the wonderful harmonies. The performance was interspersed with welcomes, thanks and opportunities for both the islanders and the visitors to explain more about themselves. Geoff answered the question regarding the motivation for our visit then we all introduced ourselves and pointed out our homes on the large map of the world. Everyone was keen to get to know each other in the short time we had available, and by the end of the presentation, many of us had gained new pen-friends to keep us busy with correspondence when we finally return home.

We dispersed soon after this, many of us making our way along the beach to the village for a dance performance from the adult members of the community. The heavy beat of the drums set our toes tapping as we were dazzled by spectacular costumes and body paint, taking in yet another variation on the cultural traditions of these islands. All too quickly our visit came to an end and we said our farewells as dozens of children helped move the Zodiacs to the water. Waves and thank-yous ensued from the small cove in which we had landed until our hosts had all but disappeared from view.

As the rain began to fall in heavy drops we turned our bow towards the Papua New Guinea mainland. The afternoon was occupied by the last of Paul's lectures outlining the impact of human activity on the environment, with particular emphasis on the last two hundred years. He discussed the cause and effect of global warming, the dissolution of polar ice and the effect that such weather changes would have upon the environmental operation of the planet. We all came away feeling a little more responsibility for our actions, understanding how our behaviour can impact upon this cycle of change. After dinner, we were also treated to a slide show from Paul, displaying some magnificent photography not only of the many islands visited during the trek across this vast ocean, but also the changing face of the Bahamas.
 

FThe Bird of Paradise is noted for the magnificent plumage of the adult males of many species. They are native to New Guinea and neighbouring islands; four species reach eastern Australia. About 40 species are known. Protected from their natural enemies by their dull colour, the females and young gather in small flocks. The more conspicuous males are often solitary, but at times engage in elaborate mating or other social display. Demand for the male plumage has threatened the survival of some species. The first specimens of this species to reach Europe, in the 16th century, lacked feet, which gave rise to the erroneous belief that the birds spent their entire lives on the wing. In 1758 Linnaeus, in jest, gave the species the name apoda, "without feet".

“Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world indeed it's the only thing that ever has.”

Margaret Mead

 The Sepik River [Tue May 25th 1999]

Early risers this morning were treated to a dramatic start to the day. Off the starboard side was Bam Island, an active volcano rising 684 meters, with Blup Blup Island off in the distance behind Bam Island. Off the port side, another active volcano, Manam Island rose 1806 meters out of the muddy waters. Dead ahead lay the final island of our voyage. Papua New Guinea, the second largest island in the world. For many of us, it was the first time we ever set our eyes on it.

As the sky glowed pink with sunrise several dolphins escorted our ship and leaped completely clear of their watery realm welcoming us. At 0650 we entered the mouth of the Sepik River, a momentous occasion for the Shuleykin. The scene from the deck changed dramatically as the vast expanse of the Pacific was replaced with the nearby deeply green vegetated shoreline of the Sepik River. Exotic looking Sago palms lined the shore. The interior of these palms supplies the main food for the Sepik River people.

In the early morning overcast coolness we experienced perfect conditions for bird-watching. Spotted flying overhead were ospreys, egrets, Sacred Ibis, Brahminy Kite and the enormous Gurney's eagle. After a few hours of winding our way against the current, the Captain anchored the Shuleykin and we all loaded into zodiacs for our final cruise of the voyage. In true expedition style we set off for some real exploring in Majop Canal, a narrow side channel of the Sepik. With the outboards turned off we floated in silence, with lush green jungle all around. A floating garden of water hyacinth and the water weed Salvinia molesta surrounded us. Fast growing Salvinia threatened to plug the lakes and lagoons of the Sepik after it was introduced from Brazil. The thick mats of Salvinia were too thick for canoes to penetrate, isolating villages and preventing fishing. Fortunately a biological solution was found by introducing the weevil Cyrtobagus singularis. The adult weevil feeds on the buds of Salvinia and the larvae burrow through the plant which dies, becomes waterlogged and sinks. Widespread distribution of the weevils began in 1983 with outstanding results. The water hyacinth, although beautiful in bloom as we observed, is also a threat as an aquatic weed. The introduction of three different insects are being tested to control it. Overhead we spotted many birds with the most striking one being the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. So named for its sulphur yellow plume on the back of its head.

Leaving the Majop Canal we cruised on to a village. Even though this was an impromptu visit, the villagers quickly set out many carvings for our perusal. Bowls, walking sticks, salad spoon and fork sets, sago paddles, and baskets were rapidly purchased. The grandest carving of all, however was Geoff's gigantic crocodile and man fighting for a woman. We are all dying to see how he gets it on the airplane! Back onboard we feasted on a delicious lunch buffet and made record speed down river. Bidding the lush shores and muddy waters of the Sepik farewell we re-entered the salty Pacific and headed south for Madang where we will end our journey.
 

The natives of the Sepik Basin area of New Guinea have a rich and varied artistic tradition. This photo shows a carved and painted figure and some masks that are characteristic of the region.

“If you're only going to visit the fairground once, take the opportunity to go on as many rides as possible.”

Matthew Mumford

Having pulled into the dock, we spent some time saying our final farewells before the bus arrived to take us to the airport and home. - Happy future travels...
 

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