C O N T E N T S

 Heading for Niue [Thur Apr 29th 1999]

Today we enjoyed a quiet day at sea as our educational program gave us a greater insight into the geography and biology of the South Pacific. The morning commenced with a lecture from Paul discussing the plate tectonics of the region as well as the effects of an El Niño cycle on the South Pacific. The discussion of the geological plates revealed not only the origin of the continents but also provided an explanation of the earth's movement. We came to understand a little more about the formation of massive mountain ranges such as the Andes and the Himalayas, the cause of earthquakes that have devastated many regions throughout the world and the existence of many of the active volcanoes that threaten civilisation across the planet. Paul also discussed the devastating effects that the El Niño warming has had on the aquatic life around the eastern sector of the Pacific, as well as the meteorological changes which have resulted in such extremes in our weather, particularly for those living close to the Pacific ocean.

Later in the morning, Theresa gave a great lecture concluding her summary of the fish life we will be encountering throughout this journey and discussing the flora of the Pacific. After invoking the images that many of us associate with the tropics, she gave us a synopsis of the plants and flowers we will see throughout this region. We were reminded of the wonderful scents of the Frangipani, the colours of the Hibiscus, the unusual shape of the Chinese lantern as well as some of the fruit and vegetables which provides sustenance for the residents of many of the islands we will be visiting.

After a delicious lunch of Austin's Shuleykin Salad we were treated to a slide show from Geoff, who took us through life on board the Shuleykin throughout the recent season. As well as some great photographs of our staff and crew, we were tempted by some of the other islands visited on this journey across the South Pacific, not to mention some magnificent images of Antarctica to remind us of what a pristine and untouched wilderness it truly is.
 

The majority of Niue's residents are Polynesians, although a small number of Europeans, Samoans and Tongans live there. The official languages are Niuean, a Polynesian language closely related to Tongan and Samoan, and English. Most people are literate in both languages. The population (1994 estimate) is about 1906, yielding a population density of about 7 persons per sq km (about 19 per sq mile). About half the people live in and around the capital, Alofi, on the island's west side. Others live in villages scattered along a road that circles the island. Niue's population has been in decline since the 1980's, due to limited economic opportunities. Approximately 15,000 Niueans live abroad, mainly in New Zealand, and incentives for them to return have been unsuccessful. Niueans are citizens of both Niue and New Zealand.

“If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in the water... Its substance reaches everywhere. It touches the past and prepares the future.”

Loren Eiseley

 Niue [Fri Apr 30th 1999]

Another wonderful day was spent in perfect weather on Niue Island as we experienced a variety of the island's offerings. Our morning began after an early breakfast, with calm waters making for an easy landing and an early sighting of the sea snakes for which Niue is famous. We were quickly carried ashore by our Zodiacs where Misa and Tali, our guides for the day, met us at the wharf and ferried us into the village of Alofi.

We had a chance to indulge our penchant for shopping, with most of us visiting the post office, the local boutiques and the markets to sample the wares. After familiarising ourselves with the lay of the land we boarded the buses once more and headed for our first destination, the spectacular Togo Chasm. Crossing the island, we stopped en route to visit a quarry located in what was once the lagoon at the centre of the atoll. Upon first inspection, there seemed little of interest but our attention was drawn to the many fossilised clamshells embedded in the heavy limestone rock surrounding the quarry. Paul gave us an explanation of the geology of the area while Theresa introduced us to some of the unusual flora around the site before we continued on our way.

Our tour took us through Hakapu Village on the south-eastern corner of the island and into the Huvalu Forest Conservation Area where we left the buses and set out on a bush walk through the limestone dotted woodlands. The forest floor was covered with an abundance of flora as the dappled sunlight played through the trees making for a magical walk to the limestone cliffs. Upon emerging from the forest we were greeted with the dramatic sight of a vast field of limestone crags jutting from the ground, cut through the middle of which was a path leading down to the Togo Chasm. The majority of us made the trek to the bottom, spotting coral formations embedded in the sharp rocks and venturing down Misa's enormous ladder that delivered us into the centre of a small palm lined gorge. Scrambling over the rocks we found at one end a fresh water pool and at the other, a stunning archway carved in the rocks, through which the breakers crashed into a small cavern.

After finally making our climb out of the gorge, we were greeted with freshly opened coconuts flavoured with a refreshing squeeze of limejuice, as well as an introduction to Misa's Coconut Crab. A delicious lunch was served at the Matavai Resort, with a magnificent view along the sheer coastline and the sound of the surf breaking over the fringing reef below.

In the afternoon, we visited the small museum, which offered an historical perspective on the Niuean contribution to World War I, as well as some of the ethnic history of the island's native population. Our day concluded with a snorkeling excursion to the stunning Limu Pools, where we had the chance to swim with the native sea snakes. Later we were treated to a close encounter as Sergei demonstrated his fearlessness, plucking an unsuspecting snake from the sea for all of us to see first hand.
 

The Pacific Ocean contains more than 30,000 islands; their total land area however, amounts to only one-quarter of one percent of the ocean's surface area. The largest of these islands, in the western region, form volcanic arcs that rise from the broad continental shelf along the eastern edge of the Eurasian Plate. They include Japan, Taiwan, the Philippines, Indonesia, New Guinea and New Zealand. The oceanic islands, collectively called Oceania, are the tops of mountains built up from the ocean basin by extruding molten rock. The mountains that remain submerged are called seamounts.

“A journey is a person in itself, no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policies and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip, a trip takes us.”

John Steinbeck
(1902-1968)

 A Voyage of Discovery [Sat May 1st 1999]

Today we enjoyed a quiet day at sea with the weather in our favour giving us gentle swells and brilliant sunshine throughout the day. The morning began with a lecture from Theresa, which discussed the biology of coral reefs. She gave us great insight into the lives of the tiny animals that make up coral reefs and explained the four types of coral; hard, soft, gorgonians, and fire. If it were not for the hard corals that can take dissolved salts from seawater and convert them into calcium carbonate (limestone), the coral islands (atolls and makateas) that we have been visiting would not exist.

Paul continued with this theme, discussing the geology of these reefs and outlining the geological establishment of different parts of a reef system. He enlightened us as to the different conditions that form each sector of a reef, as well as the structural development of the coral and limestone depending on their position within the reef structure. We heard about the Give-Up, Catch-Up and Keep-Up corals and their roles across the creation and development of the reef under ever-changing conditions.

After a delicious pasta buffet for lunch, we heard about Captain Cook's first voyage of discovery throughout the South Pacific from Jeff. He discussed the journey that took Cook around Cape Horn, into the Pacific Ocean en route to Tahiti. Jeff discussed the mission to see the transit of Venus across the sun and the objectives that were fulfilled, as well as the strong influence the Polynesian culture had upon many of Cook's crew, a poignant precursor of the mutiny to which William Bligh fell victim some years later. Jeff also talked about the subsequent voyage to New Zealand and the east coast of Australia as he made his way back to Britain.
 

The island country of Western Samoa is one of the smallest countries in the world. Covering an area of 1,093 square miles (2,831 square kilometres), it comprises the two large islands of Savai'i and Upolu, seven small islands (five of which are uninhabited) and several small islets lying off the coast. Apia with a population of 33,170 (1981 census) is the capital and largest town.

“The world is so full of wondrous things, I'm sure we should all be happy as kings.”

Robert Louis Stevenson

 Upolu, Samoa [Sun May 2nd 1999]

A smoky aroma filled the morning air upon our arrival to Apia, Western Samoa. The Samoan Sunday ritual of cooking in an Umu, (underground oven) was underway. After docking in the harbour and enjoying a "dry landing", we boarded the Eco-Bus with our guide Steve Brown and headed off to see the sights.

Our first stop was the market, where some of our group purchased some tapa cloth and other handicrafts. Then we continued through town past the King's Tombs and many of the war memorials. Our journey continued up into the highlands, where cooler air and very lush vegetation awaited us. Undaunted by the CLOSED sign, we proceeded to sneak into Robert Louis Stevenson's Estate via a secret back route. We emerged from the forest to discover Stevenson's magnificent home, silent and deserted on this Sunday afternoon.

Another stop was at a look-out where we enjoyed views of a waterfall tumbling into a densely forested valley, as well as a view looking over the island's north coast into the great blue South Pacific Ocean. Our day included some fantastic bird sightings including the endemic Samoan Fantail, Wattled Honeyeater and the Flat-billed Kingfisher.

As we drove along the coast, we were able to visit a traditional Samoan village, and then enjoyed a picnic lunch at a roadside waterfall. It was a day filled with many experiences that tickled our senses. The Sunday dress; the singing in the distance; the pigs; the peacefulness; the natural beauty and so much more. For many the day concluded with a visit to the famous Aggie Grey's Hotel. In the mid-afternoon, we bid farewell to Samoa and set sail towards Tokelau.
 

Tokelau comprises three coral atolls - Atafu, Fakaofo and Nukunonu. The people of Tokelau are closely related to the people of Tuvalu. Some 400 people live on Fale Island in Fakaofo. In 1960, a second village was established on the larger island of Fenua Fala, about 3 km NW, to relieve the overcrowding. At low tide you can walk across the reef between the two.

“An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered.”

G. K. Chesterton

 Fakaofo, Tokelau [Mon May 3rd 1999]

Today was a day that many of us will never forget, a magical island overflowing with friendliness and charm where we were all made to feel like long lost family members - a three hour visit seemed like minutes and we wanted to stay forever. After a somewhat bumpy morning at sea, interspersed with a few tropical downpours, we sighted Fakaofo soon after lunch. Geoff had an entertaining interaction with our hosts via radio but as soon as the arrangements were confirmed we made our preparations for a fast landing with the Zodiacs being lowered to water in record time.

Having completed the brief arrival formalities, we made a quick disembarkation, cleared the narrow cut in the coral reef and were ashore at Fale. We were met by a thronging welcome from the residents of the island as well as the sight of the abundant population of swimming pigs that inhabit the tidal flats adjacent to the pier. Everyone made their way to the meeting house in the centre of the island where our hosts continued their festivities with another variation on the traditional dance of Polynesia, as well as stirring vocal melodies that brought a lump to many a throat.

Our brief itinerary was underway soon after this, as most of us boarded the 'school bus' for our tour of the lagoon, while a small contingent remained in the village to absorb a little more of the lifestyle of the island. As well as the beautiful scenery, the lagoon tour took in the only other inhabited motu within the atoll, Fenuafala, which is home to Fakaofo's school as well as a few residents that have moved there since the establishment of a secondary settlement during the 60's.

Making friends was the main occupation for those of us that remained on Fale, with many of us being adopted by the children and given an intimate tour of this small tropical outpost. Our tour included a little sport in the village and plenty of broad smiles as we wandered around acquainting ourselves with the surroundings and getting to know our hosts.

Finally we congregated once more in the meeting house to indulge in the handicrafts of the island as the music and dancing recommenced in earnest. Eventually the infectious beat of the drums took hold and everyone joined in, emulating the rhythmic movements of our hosts, enjoying every brief moment we had. Our short stay passed in the blink of an eye and before we knew it we had returned to the pier for our departure. We boarded the Zodiacs once more after saying heartfelt thanks and sad goodbyes while the sounds of Fakaofo's voices echoed across the reef as we departed.

As we turned our bow away from the island with the sun casting a golden light, we felt we had been lucky to experience yet another magical place. In the evening, with cake and champagne, we all helped Charles and Dorothy celebrate their 55th wedding anniversary.
 

The Tokelauans are closely related to the people of Tuvalu. In 1991 there were 543 people on Atafu, 597 on Fakaofo and 437 on Nukunonu, totalling 1,577. Another 4,000 Tokelauans live "beyond the reef" in New Zealand, the result of a migration that began in 1963 following over-population on Tokelau itself.

“This grand show is eternal. It is always sunrise somewhere. The dew is never all dry at once. A shower is forever falling. Vapor is ever rising. Eternal sunrise, eternal sunset. Eternal dawn and glowing, on sea and continents and islands, each in it's turn as the earth rolls. And for this I am forever grateful to be alive.”

John Muir

 Atafu, Tokelau [Tue May 4th 1999]

Today we learned the true meaning of hospitality, as we were absorbed heart and soul into the culture and lifestyle of the people of Atafu. After our brief visit to Fakaofo the day before, where we had a taste of the Tokelau spirit, we were greeted with an even warmer welcome at Atafu, which captured us like nothing that had come before it.

Our morning began with the sight of the atoll basking in the early light as a barge moved across the waters towards us, carrying a welcoming contingent to bring us to shore. The formalities were quickly dispensed with as everyone eagerly crowded the gangway to be first on land and though a few of us took the opportunity to ride aboard the barge, most of us selected the Zodiacs as our preferred mode of transport. Led to the pier by a pod of dolphins, we were greeted with a mass of smiling faces as the elders of Atafu led the islanders in a heartfelt greeting to this rarely visited outpost. So rarely visited in fact that we later discovered we were the first cruise ship ever to visit the island.

Having been leid, we were then led to the village Fale, making our acquaintances en route as the senior members of the Atafu community extended the hand of friendship along the way. We took our places around the tables, indulged in coconut waters, and heard speeches in the Tokelau language, which despite our lack of understanding rang with immense sincerity indicating the pleasure that our hosts had in presenting their beautiful home to us. As we later discovered, the day had been declared a holiday, which saw everyone contributing to make our experience even more precious.

Our next destination took us on a short walk through the village to the Matauala School where we witnessed a magnificent presentation of the music and dance of the island, performed solely by the students. We were enchanted by the uninhibited smiles of children of all ages, singing to passionate crescendos that described through their actions not only the pleasure they had in performing such items, but also the pride that these islanders have in their rich heritage. After a wonderful show, some of us took the opportunity to sail around the lagoon, cooling off with a welcome stop at a motu for some snorkelling. The abundance of sea life was again prolific, despite the relatively small amount of coral in the vicinity but for many of us, the relief from the stifling heat was our main motivation having reached our northern-most destination for the journey.

At the same time, others made the most of a chance to deepen our acquaintance with the people of Atafu, which produced many fascinating and individual experiences to take away with us. Upon our return to the village, we were presented with a magnificent feast of island fare that tempted the palate. Apart from some of the traditional flavours we have tasted on other islands, we were also treated to some delicious home-grown pork as well as the delicate flavour of the local crabs.

Our afternoon ended all too quickly, with a further performance by the children at the Fale, to complete our lunchtime spectacular. We had the opportunity to purchase some of the beautiful crafts that are not usually seen outside these islands, and as the sun began to descend onto the horizon, we said our farewells to these wonderful people with a send-off that equally matched our greeting.
 

The Pacific Ocean is the largest single geographic feature on Earth. With a total area of 166 million square km, it occupies more than one-third of the globe. North to South, from the Bering Strait to Antarctica is a distance of 15, 761km. East to West, along the wide stretch from Mindanao in the Philippines to the Panama Canal, the Pacific measures 17,220 km.

“This we know, the earth does not belong to man, man belongs to the earth. All things are connected like the blood, which unites us all. Man did not weave the web of life, he is merely a strand in it. Whatever he does to the web, he does to himself.”

Cheif Sealth